Joya de Ceren, San Andres & Tazumal - El Salvador

Joya de Ceren, San Andres, Tazumal – El Salvador

Post published:3 January 2016
Post category:Central America El Salvador

Share it with the world

Pompeii of the Americas

Continuing our tour in El Salvador, we spared today for doing what is known as the Maya Route. Although within the country there are many hundreds of known Maya places, the majority of them remain unexcavated, with only 8 sites out of 11 in total currently open to the public (as of January 2016). 3 of them are the ones offered in this route, which also are the best ones and unique not only to El Salvador but across the entire former Maya civilisation area. The good side is that all of them are within easy reach from the capital, hence another reason why to have your base in San Salvador would work perfectly as we did.

Joya de Ceren, nicknamed as the Mayan Pompeii or Pompeii of the Americas, is not for coincidence. The fate of this ancient city was the very same as that of the Roman city in Italy. The volcano next door once abruptly erupted and buried the city well deep in hot ash and pyroclastic flow, 10 layers to be precise, meaning the level of conservation is quite immaculate and to this date, the only one example of Maya city where one can see how the people really lived 1400 years ago, with their houses, their utensils, cultivated land and even food. That’s right, it was dinner time when the eruption occurred and while the people had enough time to flee for their lives, they left absolutely everything behind. A proper time capsule like no other that brought to live many of the unknown facts of the daily lives of the Maya. No corpse whatsoever have ever been found in the site, another indication that proves they could escape prior to the destruction.

Although it is known to be there at least 40 structures, only 10 have been entirely excavated and put on display at great care. The reason why they cannot continue excavations is that once open and exposed again to the air after that many hundreds of years, they cannot stop nor control them from deteriorating. Nevertheless, the ones you can see today are an amazing example to give you an idea. (more…)

Share it with the world

Suchitoto - El Salvador

Suchitoto – El Salvador

Post published:2 January 2016
Post category:Central America El Salvador

Share it with the world

Kingdom of Birds and Flowers

Our first day trip while in El Salvador after visiting the capital city, San Salvador, the day before, was for doing this rather quiet and relaxing visit to this small town. Located to the north of the capital, at only 50 kilometres, is a really nice and charming place if what you are looking is to have bygone colonial feel. The luck of this town having survived most earthquakes and eruptions from the nearby volcanoes is something that San Salvador did not have; and as such, it is no surprise now you see in travel books Suchitoto is in the colonial route in the country.

The town lies less than 2 kilometres inland from the Suchitlan Lake, which is in fact a man-made lake created by the dam. The nature surrounding the place is really nice, with also many small islands, all of which you can see if taking boat from the pier located at the Malecon. Negotiate the price and try to lower it down since you will be quoted way over the average, especially if you are a non Spanish speaking.

Other than this, and because of the very small size of the town, there is nothing else I can really tell you about in this introduction. Remember not to wake up too early to get here, as you will have plenty of time. As I mentioned before, this is a great excursion to break in between other heavier tours. It is always good to have in between an already crazy non-stop trip through Central America as we were doing some other days with more relaxed and easy tours

(more…)

Share it with the world

San Salvador - El Salvador

San Salvador – El Salvador

Post published:1 January 2016
Post category:Central America El Salvador

Share it with the world

El Valle de Las Hamacas: The Valley of Hammocks

Continuing southeast on our Central America trip after Guatemala and Honduras, we arrive to San Salvador, the capital city of the next country in our list. Country visited number 75 to this date! That’s a whopping number already, and for the many more to come year after year, fingers crossed. And what a day to arrive here, New Year’s Eve. This is not the first time we are at some random destination and/or trip for this date. I can still remember Mexico City 2 years ago, Hong Kong 3 or Varanasi already 4 years ago. I do not need to have a party at all on this day, I rather prefer travel anywhere, and even if I have to eat for dinner a take away, I would be very happy to do so, as long I am somewhere in the world. We had in any case a really nice dinner and party at the hotel.

El Salvador, likewise any other Central American country, lies in the extremely active Ring of Fire, with many active volcanoes everywhere. You do not need to look any far from the city, and you will clearly see San Salvador Volcano (or Quetzaltepec). Volcano eruptions and earthquakes are responsible for the destruction of majority of the original historical buildings from the Spanish colonial times. The current reincarnation is a modern city with quite poor and decaying infrastructure that will barely coop with a possible strong earthquake. No wonder why the Spanish nicknamed it “El Valle de las Hamacas (The Valley of Hammocks)” in allusion to the need for beds that would sway with the earth’s movements during an earthquake.

Classical, ne-Gothic, art-deco and modernist architecture now fills the streets, with an ongoing frenetic construction round the clock in the new outskirt areas around the wealthier neighbourhoods. Still, if you are having in mind visiting the city, you will be certainly disappointed. Really few buildings are worth, while the rest of the city centre is an eyesore of chaotic and dirty rundown streets among an uncertainty of safety concerns. I can honestly say that walking around San Salvador has given me the feeling of one of the most unsafe place I’ve ever been to, however and very important to mention here, it was also one with such a thriving nightlife and amount of bars and discos full of great people, that somewhat it really confused me when having this points in a balance.

(more…)

Share it with the world

Copan Ruinas - Honduras

Copan Ruinas – Honduras

Post published:30 December 2015
Post category:Central America Honduras

Share it with the world

One of the four Maya capitals

At one of the highlights on this Central America trip without any doubt! The ancient Maya city of Copan in Honduras, which in fact was one of the four capitals of this ancient civilization, in this case the eastern capital. The others were Tikal to the north (in Guatemala), Palenque and Calakmul to the west (in Mexico). Having been already in Tikal before, now in Copan, the remaining 2 as of today are on the scope to be the next candidates, hopefully soon. The four capitals were also some of the largest Maya cities and as such, the incredible amount of structures to see is large, yet bearing in mind only a small portion is excavated on them. Did I also mentioned Honduras counts as of today as a new country that I have not been before? This means country visited number 74!.

While if Tikal was an easy trip from Flores in Guatemala, the nearest larger city, and the visit itself, even through right in the middle of the jungle, was quite easy to navigate; in the case of Copan this was way much more laid back, and reaching this place from Guatemala City was a lengthily but comfortable bus ride. Go and back in the same day. Exhausting and tiring but well worth it if you ask me.

Both Copan and the northern capital, Tikal, have a lot to share in common. While if architecture, structures and construction across the Maya civilization do not vary much (unless for the the northern region of Yucatan with the clear Puuc style), the location of the cities vary. In this case, both were created in the middle of the jungle hence why they were “lost” for so many centuries, buried deep beneath the overgrown nature. It is up to date that excavations are still ongoing, and you can guess the many small buried pyramids and other structures under the massive roots of the trees and vegetation. Only a small portion of the city has been uncovered. (more…)

Share it with the world

Pacaya Volcano - Guatemala

Pacaya Volcano – Guatemala

Post published:29 December 2015
Post category:Central America Guatemala

Share it with the world

One of the most active volcano in Guatemala

Once again, at the beginning of another tour. 3 weeks holidays through 5 countries in Central America. While we arrived into Guatemala City the day before, the reason for returning to Guatemala was not just by coincidence but on purpose. The last time we were here was 2 years ago and we wanted to visit the Pacaya Volcano. Said to be the most active in the country. But due to time constraints we could not manage to get any spare time to do so. Of course in any case, just a volcano is not major reason to decide by all means having to arrive here. The second reason, and major one, was to be able to get to the Maya city of Copan just across the border from Guatemala to Honduras. Since flying into Honduras was not optional at all, Guatemala City was the best choice for the reasons above and for the great air fare deal with Iberia.

Only a quick note here as I will further expand in the next travelguide, Copan was one of the four Maya capitals, being the others Tikal (in Guatemala), Palenque and Calakmul (in Mexico). Having been already in Tikal, and Copan on this trip, the remaining 2 as of today are highly on the scope to be the next candidates soon.

Somehow in the other hand, putting aside how many sights Guatemala has across its land, it is one of the countries I feel quite confident and good. The people, the food, the beauty. All adds up even though it is not one of the safest place to be. At least Guatemala City is not somewhere you can stroll as you would do anywhere in Europe without worry, nor you would once it gets dark. Yet in any case comparing the latest visit with the one 2 years back, the improvements in every sense are very obvious. Better infrastructure, ongoing construction and overall increase in wealth. (more…)

Share it with the world

Easter Island - Chile

Easter Island – Chile

Post published:10 April 2015
Post category:Chile South America

Share it with the world

The Most Isolated Island on Earth

Travelling to the most remote place I’ve ever been to from all the 70 countries I’ve visited so far up to date (April 2015), the decision of travelling to Easter Island was not even optional after booking the tickets to Santiago. We for sure knew that getting here was going to be in fact the main purpose of the whole trip altogether. After all, we made the 17 hours flight it takes from London to Santiago (via Madrid), so another 5.5 hours extra was not going to be much difficult. And to our great surprise only to find out that we would be flying Business Class with LAN as they overbooked the flight. Well, one of the “added” benefits of being a Silver/Sapphire member with the One World Alliance, free upgrades when overbooked.

Easter Island; also known by its Polynesian name of Rapa Nui is one of the most remote islands on earth at almost 4000 kilometers away from the nearest mainland, Chile, where its jurisdiction belongs to. Mataveri Airport officially hold the title of the most remote of any international airports in the planet.

Now something that you need to bear in mind and consider before planning a trip here are the costs. It is highly likely that your main international and/or intercontinental flight to Santiago will be cheaper than the “internal” flight between Santiago and Rapa Nui. The only explanation, apart from the distance of course, is lucrative reasons. Being the only daily flight and LAN Chile the only airline in the route then they can set the prices as high as they consider. Do not expect to find any deal ever here unfortunately but in any case, don’t even think twice and specially if you are coming from far away as us from the U.K. If you ask me now, was it really worth it? My answer is 100% yes.

(more…)

Share it with the world

Valparaiso - Chile

Valparaiso – Chile

Post published:7 April 2015
Post category:Chile South America

Share it with the world

The Jewel of the Pacific

Getting to our second destination in Chile, although just as a day trip from Santiago, we visited what is many people describes as the most beautiful and picturesque city in the country. The 3rd largest city and most important port in the country and the whole of the South Pacific. It is also home to an incredible collection of beautiful colourful Victorian houses perched on the many hills of the city and overlooking the South Pacific Ocean, linked with the lower parts of the city by its unique network of old funicular lifts. All of this contributed for the city to be listed an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

On the last point, the funiculars, is what gets the city special attention and gives that extra charm. Although originally there were over 26 in operation, today the number is reduced to “just” 8 where unfortunately, there is still much work that should be done in order to ensure their operation for future generations. It’s an unique industrial heritage only found in Valparaiso in such an extent. I can only think of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania (U.S.) where a similar yet more reduced network was constructed dating to the same age as Valparaiso’s one.

The city grew and thrived ever since Chile’s independence from Spain right until the opening of the Panama Canal, with its port becoming the largest and most important for all ships en-route from the Pacific to the Atlantic across the Magellan Straights. From 1912 the city experienced a steep decline, coupled with natural disasters as earthquakes, but recovered and continues to grow and thrive in all senses, to the point of being officially named Chile’s Cultural City.

(more…)

Share it with the world

Los Andes and Portillo - Chile

Los Andes and Portillo – Chile

Post published:6 April 2015
Post category:Chile South America

Share it with the world

Where Chile and Argentina meet

Our next experience while in Chile brought us to visit the Andes, and this time, not from the distance but from the top in the middle of them! The highest point we went was at 3820 meters, right at the place where you can be at both Chile and Argentina soils; and what a better place to mark this than the Christ the Redeemer of the Andes. Specifically built to commemorate the 1904 peace resolution between the border dispute of both countries.

This is also the only direct road route between both countries across the Andes from Santiago in Chile towards the Mendoza region in Argentina. The first small city you will pass by is Los Andes. Nothing special about it, but it’s here from where the road split on direction towards Portillo. In this section you will start to get great views of the mountains and nature, following the parallel route of the now disused railway line that once connected Santiago and Mendoza.

Right before you reach Portillo comes the famous 32 curves ascending road. Quite a sight on its own, but slowly, you will be climbing up and up in two sets. Once you are after the last curve, you are already in Portillo where the main sky resorts are located. By the time of the year we travelled here (April) these were still closed, but was for matter of few more days until the first snow would come. I would refrain by all means from doing this route during winter time. First of all because how dangerous the road can be, and second, because there will be almost no visibility, and this place is really to be seen as clear as possible in order to admire the incredible beauty and grandness. We’ve been very lucky to have such a sunny and clear day. (more…)

Share it with the world