The City on Seven Hills
Finally we managed another of our destinations which was in our wish list for a long time. On this occasion, thanks to the air fare deal by Pegasus Airlines, the Turkish low cost. And although the flight times are not the most convenient ones, they give you in fact, the whole of the weekend to enjoy, by departing Friday night as the last flight of Stansted Airport and landing in Istanbul just before 5am on Saturday.
Don’t you worry about landing so early, Ataturk Airport is already getting busy by that time and you have everything already open and running, and so the bus to the city centre.
The city is the largest in Europe (by population within city limits, ref. Wikipedia) and also offers the visitor a great and vast amount of sights, monuments, museums and historical places. Once named Byzantium, the capital city of the Byzantine Empire, Constantinople in the Ottoman Empire. Buildings from every epoch are still standing in great fusion with the modern and elegant city, where broad avenues where laid out on top of the ancient city.
A great tip which will save you loads of time for sightseeing is to stay at a hotel (hostel, apartment or wherever you plan to stay) near Sultanahmet, since from this area you are only walking distance from most of the sights. No need for any transportation, only on foot (unless when going to Taksim Square or other areas).
Consider visiting the city in low season, this means immediately prices are much lower for everything, queues for the sights will be greatly reduced (while in high season expect even hours for Topkapi Palace or Hagia Sophia), and as always the best of this is the city looking much real and not an amusement park for tourists. I rarely can say this for my short weekend escapes to any city in Europe, but a weekend in Istanbul is really not enough, but at least will give you a hint and will amaze you on how pretty and how much history it has.
No visit to Istanbul can be really a visit without the must-do’s Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace, Grand Bazaar and a Bosphorus boat ride. But for sights I concentrate later on in the next section.
With regards to food, well, you are never too far from a great choice, specially if on the street between the Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar. Be sure you go for Arabic food, which obviously includes hummus, falafel, dolma, kofte… or the mandatory kebab.
For more information about the city check Wikipedia and Wikitravel sites. Turkey’s currency is the Lira (₺, TL). Please note that any price reference is true as from when this guide was created, therefore check prices in advance as with the time they change.
What to see and do in Istanbul
- Sultanahmet District The historic old town filled with the grandest monuments in the city and most visited anywhere in Turkey. Located in the European continent bordering the Golden Horn at the north side, the Bosphorus along the east side and the Sea of Marmara in the south. It is part of several areas declared UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
-Topkapi Palace Located at the eastern tip of the district, was the residence of the Ottoman Sultans for over 400 years. A huge complex of palaces and gardens with marvellous architecture. Listed by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. 09.00-17.00, 20TL.
-Gulhane City Park Right at the front of the Topkapi Palace and pretty much surrounding it from the sides. Offers great views over the palace and nearby sights.
-Archaeological Museum The best of its kind in Istanbul, within the Gulhane City Park boundaries, next to the Topkapi Palace.
-Royal Mint of the Ottoman Empire Side by side with the Archaeological Museum.
-Hagia Irene Church Dating from 548, it is one of the very few churches not turned into a mosque as it acted as an arsenal after the Ottoman conquest. It’s next to the Royal Mint complex.
-Sultan’s Wall While not much is left, the entire south and west perimeters enclosing the Gulhane Park and Topkapi Palace are pretty well preserved. Merely few meters across the Hagia Sophia which sits outside of the walls.
-Soğukçeşme Street A major historic throughfare between Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and Gülhane Park following pretty much in parallel the Sultan’s Wall.
-Sultan Ahmet Square The main public space few meters south from the Sultan’s Wall and Topkapi Palace, where the most celebrated architectural jewels of the city stand one at each side, the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque among others.
-Hagia Sophia At the north side of the square. The major landmark of the city and the country, a wonder of architecture and engineering. Listed by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Originally built in 537AD as the grandest church of the back then, capital of the Byzantine Empire, Constantinople, becoming the first Roman church to have a giant round dome no less than 1000 years before it became the standard across Europe during the Renaissance period. Turned into a mosque in 1453 after the Ottoman conquest, it then served as a museum from the early 1900s until 2020 when it was converted back to a functional mosque. Therefore, there is no entrance fee and any visitor is welcomed to enter except during the praying times, and it is opened every day of the week.
-Hürrem Sultan Baths Along the east side of the square. Built in the 16th century in classical Ottoman style. Anyone can enter and enjoy a Turkish bath, however, this one will not come cheap and expect some 80 euros for a full treatment. In comparison, you can find equally great baths for merely 10 euros outside the main tourist area.
-Ruins of the Great Palace of Constantinople Right behind the Hürrem Sultan Baths. Not much is left as the Ottomans used the space to build the new city around it.
-Sultan Ahmet Museum and Tomb Along the south side of the square, in Ottoman style, like a mini version of the Blue Mosque that sits behind.
-Sultan Ahmet Mosque The most important mosque in the city, dating back to 1616. Commonly known as the Blue Mosque for its hand-painted blue tiles adorning the interiors. A wonderful Ottoman masterpiece with 6 minarets, 5 main domes and 8 secondary domes where parts were built over the foundation vaults of the Great Palace. Listed by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. As any mosque in the city, it is free to visit except during the praying times.
-Million Just along the west side of the square. A 4th century marker from where al the distances were measured in the Byzantine Empire.
-Water Tower Built during the Ottoman period in order to create water pressure. Located right by the Million.
-Basilica Cistern Next to the Million. Also referred as the Sunken Palace, it is an impressive 6th century cistern to collect water for the city, just one of the many that were built, but the largest with difference. Check the Medussa statues at the base of two columns. 09.00-18.30. 10TL.
-Hippodrome of Constantinople Few remains are visible of one of the greatest hippodromes ever built in antiquity. Several monuments brought from all over the world to adorn the spina are still in the very same position as they were for over 2000 years, together with others of later periods.
-Serpent Column Dating from the 5th century BC to celebrate the victory of the Greeks over the Persians, ooriginally located in Delphi, Greece.
-Obelisk of Thutmose III Brought from the Temple of Karnak in Luxor, Egypt, in 390 upon orders of Theodisious the Great.
-Walled Obelisk Built in the 10th century AD by Emperor Constantine Porphyrogenitus. Originally covered with gilded bronze plaques, these were looted many centuries ago.
-The German Fountain Was a gift from the German Kaiser Wilhelm II to the Ottoman Sultan.
-Bronze Horses Although currently not in Istanbul anymore nor part of the spina decoration, these once stood on top of the hyppodrome boxes. Such statues were taken to Venice to adorn St Mark’s Basilica where you can see the originals in the museum, and the exact copy in the facade.
-Divanyolu Caddesi The main commercial street linking Sultan Ahmet Square at the east with the western edge of the district connecting several other major landmarks such as Cemberlitas Square, the Grand Bazaar and the University. All long its way there is a tram line connecting very fast anywhere.
-Mausoleums Heading west along Divanyolu Caddesi you’ll find the mausoleums of three Ottoman sultans. Mahmud II (1875-1839), Abdulaziz (1830-1876) and Abdul Hamid II.
-Cemberlitas Square One of the major areas for the amount of sights all around, notably the Grand Bazaar along the northern side.
-Column of Constantine Built upon orders of the Roman emperor Constantine the Great to commemorate the dedication of Constantinople on 11 May 330 AD, and located at what was back then the Forum.
-Cemberlitas Baths Next to the Column along the east side of the square. Built in 1584, and still opened today as a Turkish Bath.
-Atik Ali Pasha Mosque Opposite the baths, along the west side of the square. Built in 1496 in the traditional Ottoman style that predominates in the city.
-Nuruosmaniye Mosque Dating from 1755, is located farther north from the square behind some buildings, and by the east side entrance of the Grand Bazaar.
-Grand Bazaar The world famous labyrinthine streets are a treat for your eyes, colours, smells, tastes. Anything can be found in here, but make sure you lower the originally quoted prices at least by thrice.
-Koca Sinan Pascha Mausoleum Continuing west along Divanyolu Caddesi just after Cemberlitas Square.
-Corlulu Ali Pasa Mosque and Madrasa Meters after Sinan Pascha Mausoleum.
-Kara Mustafa Pasha Complex Across the street from the Corlulu Ali Pasa mosque. Another of many everywhere in the city however pretty much the same one from another.
-Beyazit Square On the western edge of the old town, the Grand Bazar’s west side, is home to several buildings of the University among historic mosques.
-Beyazit Mosque One of the largest in the city, completed in 1501. Commissioned by Sultan Bayezid II who reigned the empire from 1481 to 1512.
-Museum of Turkish Calligraphic Art Opposite the Beyazit mosque, it is housed in a former madrasa dating from 1508.
-Gates of the University Standing where the main entrance to the Roman Forum once stood.
-Sehzade Mosque Heading northwest from Beyazit Square along Sehzade Street you’ll find this large complex dating from 1548.
-Sarachane and Fatih Parks Right at the front of Sehzade Mosque, containing some archaeological remains from the Roman period, notably the aqueduct.
-Valens Aqueduct Completed in 373AD to supply the buildings and baths of the main Forum of Constantinopolis, was enlarged and kept functional through many more centuries during the Byzantine and Ottoman empires.
-Suleymaniye Mosque Complex Located north behind the University, or east from the Valens Aqueduct, it is one of the major sights in the city. An Ottoman Imperial Mosque completed in 1557, remaining the largest in the city only until 2019 when the Grand Camlica Mosque was built. Several mausoleumns, tombs, schools, baths, hospital, kitchen and more are all within the complex.
-Spice Bazaar Dating from 1665 and as glorious as the Granz Bazaar yet much smaller. As the name indicates, it is still the main place to find great spices.
-Yeni Cami Mosque Also referred as the New Mosque, it is side by side with the Spice Bazaar. Completed in 1665.
-Galata Bridge Only important for linking both major areas of old Istanbukl, not for any beautiness, however, for the best views of this part of the city and the many minarets of the mosquest, just head across towards Galata. In the bridge you will see fishermens day and night, then selling the fresh fish to the restaurants nearby.
-Sirkeci Train Station Continuing east back again towards the Topkapi Palace but along the coast, you’ll find one of the main railway terminals in the city. It’s architecture makes it worht having a look from the outside.
- Galata District Just across the Galata Bridge which connects both parts of the old town with Sultanahmet. Both parts are still in European soil.
-Tunel The world’s second oldest underground railway, second to London. It connects Karakoy along the southern shore of the Bosphorus, next to the Galata Bridge, with the upper station Beyoglu, next to Sishane metro and tram station by Istiklal Avenue.
-Galata Tower The tower and the old houses under it creates one of the most recognisable images of Istanbul, which you can capture from the opposite side of the Bosphorus by the pier where all the tourist boat rides depart.
-Istiklal Avenue One of the most famous throughfare in Istanbul, not only for the charm of the architecture, but as well for the most beloved old historic red trams that crosses the entire avenue from Sishane at the western side all the way to Taksim Square. Plenty of high street shopping in this street.
-Taksim Square This is the heart of the city where old and new blends, and also the place where should a revolt or manifestation occur.
-Dolmabahce Palace and Gardens. Located not much farther east from Taksim Square and along the Bosphorus riverside. Was the main administrative center of the Ottoman Empire from 1856 to 1920, nowadays a museum. Its magnificent façade can be best admired from a boat.
- Bosphorus Area This is the narrow body of water that separates Europe from Asia and links the Black Sea at the north with the Sea of Marmara and the Mediterranean at the south. The major attraction here are the of both shores from a boat.
-Maiden’s Tower With a history dating back to 341BC where once was a small peninsula with a temple; the later structure we see today is one of the major landmarks of the city, a tower-lighthouse in the middle of the Bosphorus from the early 18th century.
-River cruise While there are plenty of options to take a boat tour along the Golden Horn and Bosphorus, one does not necessarily need to take a tourist boat but instead, the public transportation boats. With frequencies every few minutes and merely a fraction of the cost, using these will allow you to move freely and enjoy more routes whenever you desire. The best suggestion to share is to take a boat towards Buyukdere, one of the farthest destinations one can go on a public transport boat to enjoy the entire Bosphorus.
-Ortakoy Mosque Located right under the July 15th Martyrs Bridge, the first to cross from Europe to Asia. Dates from 1854.
-Waterfront of Arnavutköy For the view of many beautiful villas and houses that you’ll see on any boat ride.
-Rumeli Citadel Just before the Faith Sultan Mehmet Bridge, and also by the waterfront. One of many citadels, watchtowers and defensive structures built alonf the Bosphorus for protection of invasion. Dates from 1452.
- Asian Side Just across the Bosphorus. This is a very traditional and historic fishing community in origin, where you can find plenty of beautiful old wooden houses in a maze of narrow bendy streets. The major districts are Salacak (next to the Maiden’s Tower), Aziz Mahmud Hudayi (north of Salacak) and Ahmediye (east of Salacak).
From the airport take the “Havaş” airport bus which starts at 5.00am and go as final destination Taksim Square for 14TL stopping along the way. From Taksim you have direct access to the Metro and trams, buses or taxis should you need them to your final destination.
In the city centre and running along the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, Basilica Cistern, Grand Bazaar, and main streets there is the most convenient tram line. There are also several metro lines in operation, with several additional ones under construction and due to open soon, especially of interest the one that will connect Istanbul Airport. To name a line of interest, is the Tunel, the world’s second oldest underground railway, connecting the riverside of Galata with the upper station Sishane that interconnect with other metro lines and the historic red trams by Istiklal Avenue.
Moving by boat is very common in this city where everywhere you are surrounded by water. Fast and reliable, it is also the best way to admire the city and its great architecture and landscape. No matter if you opt for a tourist boat, the ones they generally explain you the buildings and what you see along the way, or the public transport ones which cost a fraction of the price and go even further should you need it or want it, hence visiting more places.
As capital city and finance centre of such importance, absolutely every hotel chain is represented by more than one locations, and of course, the thousands of other local hotels. You should be able to find great deals over the internet but beware in high season months the prices will be higher.
In our case we stayed at the Albatros Premier, in Kucukayasofya Mahallesi, Cayiroglu. This is right in the middle Sultanahmet area, and less than 5 minutes to the Blue Mosque by walking. It was a very nice place to stay, but unfortunately they did not have the rooms we originally booked (4 rooms) and they split us. Not much of a problem because their other property is literally across the road, but not as charming as the historic boutique building.