Aswan - Temple of Philae

Aswan – Egypt

Post published:8 October 2022
Post category:Africa Egypt

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Ancient Swenett

Arriving at the last port of call you can reach on a Nile river cruise coming from Luxor, it is now the time to visit the large city of Aswan, ancient Swenett which was the southernmost city during the Egyptian civilization. Located just by the First Cataract of the Nile River, and north of the Aswan Dam, it is another of such places where you will find spectacular places and constructions within the city itself and the areas around it, with countless temples some of which in islands between the two dams and the greater dam itself in Lake Nasser beyond south towards Sudan. Remember the fact when speaking this is Lower Egypt and in the opposite direction, north towards Alexandria, is Upper Egypt, as it might contradict your though when considering the river flows from the south (Lower Egypt) to the north (Upper Egypt). This is the gateway to Nubia, the once major rival civilization to the Egyptians with whom they fought for thousands of years until they were absorbed into one.

Aside from the historical sites and monuments, Aswan is, as opposed to Luxor, a rather pleasant and beautiful city, and very vibrant! The river traffic is constant with plenty of cruise ships, fishing boats, cargo ships and hundreds of feluccas navigating from dusk till dawn. You can also experience was was back during the British colonial times a very posh and upscale destination with glorious buildings and elegant river front, noteworthy to mention the top historic, world famous and amazing Old Cataract Hotel with a countless list of guests including presidents, kings and queens, singers, writers and legends, but largely known for being one of the main setup places where Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile.

Visiting the city itself is easy and straightforward, however bear in mind you will need plenty of time if you are coming here o your own and not part of an organised trip, and why is that? Because you will constantly need negotiate either a driver, a felucca and depend on taxis, not to mention the dependency of some boats to reach the temples in several islands. Nevertheless “almost” every tourist coming here is on a tour, hence no need to worry about anything. In any case and like everywhere else when on a river cruise, while it is very probably you sleep in the boat during your stay in the city, and after doing the programmed tours during the day, coming the afternoon you are free to roam at your own pace and do as you please, and here comes the best you can do: negotiate the cost and time for a tour on a felucca up and down the river and around the islands within the city. This is without hesitation, one of the best activities we could do. It was one of the most pleasant and relaxed moments in the entire trip and one to always remember. The landscapes, the views, quietness and such a beautiful sunset, all during at least 3 hours and for so little money per person (we were more people from our group hiring it together thus sharing the costs). (more…)

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Sunset in a Nile River Cruise - Egypt

Nile River Cruise – Egypt

Post published:6 October 2022
Post category:Africa Egypt

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The Cradle of the Egyptian Civilisation

Continuing the trip through the whole of Egypt, we embark at Luxor on a 4 night’s Nile river cruise upstream towards Aswan, the final point to disembark and thereafter continue south towards Abu Simbel, right up to the border with Sudan at the very southernmost point of Egypt. This was for many years a dream to come true and finally got to make it with the best company possible, my family. After that many trips together, countless countries across all continents and so many different cultures, this trip will be remembered as one of the best ever in terms of how memorable, what an impressive country and the incredible ancient Egyptian civilisation everyone of us craves for. Certainly a once in a lifetime for anyone, yet in my case updating this short sentence here, as of May 2024 the third time in the country although just in Cairo and Alexandria.

While anyone can book a river cruise on their own at the countless travel websites offering the services should you plan a trip to Egypt on your own, it is best without any doubt, when booked as part of a wider organised trip. You have the option to plan a trip either including the Nile cruise or otherwise, the cheaper version overland between Luxor towards Aswan, however, I would never imagine anyone cutting some costs and not doing what is the most beautiful way to travel while in the country enjoying spectacular sunrises and sunsets, the landscapes and and the people’s day to day living.

The cruises depart weekly from Luxor and navigate upstream (Upper Egypt) towards Aswan where everyone disembark, and sail back from Aswan towards Luxor (Lower Egypt) in a continuous loop. No matter which direction you take it, these are all the very same whether 4 or 3 nights. If on a 4 nights, the first night is merely accommodation while docked in Luxor or Aswan. Some tours might include you the night at a hotel in either of the cities, others already onboard as was our in our case. On a good side, breakfast and dinner is also included, buffet style, and all of the ships do have a top deck bar where to enjoy from the chairs and hammocks cold Egyptian beers or whatever you like, and a generally very beautiful pub/bar to enjoy some music and drinks after dinner. And to bear in mind, not all the ships do have a top deck pool. Not that you will have much time to enjoy it, but it is nice during the parts of the journey that happen during the day.
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Luxor - Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut

Luxor – Egypt

Post published:2 October 2022
Post category:Africa Egypt

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Ancient Thebes, the fourth Capital of ancient Egypt

Moving onto what’s possibly the major and most important sight in the whole of Egypt, and to the humanity after some days visiting Cairo. The greatest archaeological site anywhere in the planet, Luxor. The once glorious and largest capital city of ancient Egypt during the Middle and New Kingdom eras, from 2130 to 1279 BCE and known as Waset and Thebes, time of the greatest dynasties ever, right after Thinis the first ever capital (3150-2686 BCE), Memphis (2686-2160) and Heracleopolis Magna (2160-2040). Almost a thousand years when the development of the civilization was at its height, notably in society, economy, expansion, power, every possible knowledge and of course, architecture which after all, it is what we can really tangibly see and admire when we come to this region of Egypt with such pharaonic constructions like no others and the most imposing tombs ever created in the world by the once most advanced civilization known in the planet.

For anyone coming to Egypt, especially if on a tour, this would be the busiest place in terms of tourists you will find at every site. The tours coming from the north from Cairo, the ones coming from the south from Aswan, the ones starting in Luxor and the thousands of twice weekly arrivals from the cruises either upriver or downriver. Honestly it can be stressing in small spaces within the temples considering the summer months temperatures when you end up absolutely soaked in sweat especially when inside the tombs but in the other hand, it does not really matter. The experience to see all that is priceless, and as you continue reading this guide I will let you know about some stunning tombs you might be visiting pretty much alone!

The modern day city of Luxor itself, is pretty much irrelevant in terms of sightseeing or anything worth to visit. Only the area around the Nile riverside is in general the busiest place as the docks for the dozens of ships are here, with many little shops around but nothing special as opposed to other cities we visited later on such as Kom Ombo or Aswan. Still within the city itself there are the two fabulous great temples of Karnak and Luxor, and having a calesa ride in the late afternoon or evening through the city when the temples are lighted up will be a great experience! Most if not all the tours do include it in their program however if not or you are not in a tour, it is easy to spot them and previously negotiating a price, do not hesitate in doing it.

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Giza - Egypt

Giza, Saqqara and Dahshur – Egypt

Post published:1 October 2022
Post category:Africa Egypt

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The last surviving Wonder of the Ancient World

This is without exception, the highlight of any trip to Egypt, including Cairo, Luxor, Aswan or Abu Simbel. Giza is in any case a suburb of the ever expanding Cairo, where the houses have reached literally the very limit of the fences that separate it from the Giza Plateau necropolis. Not a very wise decision, as it’s not any more as impressive as it would have been to arrive to Giza and see the magnificent Pyramids in full from far, and not a Pizza Hut for example, right opposite the Sphinx entrance!

The first and most impressive, complete, historical and largest of the ancient Pharaohs necropolis is Giza; then at just few kilometres to the south is Abusir, the next funerary complex which is closed to visitors, at least by the time of our trip here. And immediately south of Abusir is the enormous Saqqara site, home to the first and oldest pyramid ever built in humanity (the Step Pyramid, or Pyramid of Djoser), with many others from larger to much smaller, many tombs, the Imhotep Museum and the amazing Serapeum.

The last of the necropolis complexes within an acceptable distance from Cairo, is Dahshur, where you will find the first true smooth-sided pyramid ever built, The Red Pyramid of Sneferu; and one of the very last ever built by the ancient Egyptians, the Bent Pyramid; unique in the way that has two different angles since they did not know anymore how to really build perfect pyramids and had and angle miscalculation where if continuing at the initial angle, the whole structure would have collapsed, however changing its angle to a smaller one half way the construction meant stability yet its unique odd look. Completing this funerary complex among others, is the Black Pyramid of Sneferu, nowadays collapsed, however the original maze of corridors still intact underground.

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Cairo - Egypt

Cairo – Egypt

Post published:1 October 2022
Post category:Africa Egypt

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The largest city in the Arab world

Coming to Cairo, one of the greatest cities in the word notably for its incredible architecture and of course, being home to the only surviving Seven Wonders of the Ancient World is a must do in a lifetime for anyone. Although in my case not the first anymore, but the third so far as or May 2024 and likely more to come in the coming years and continue discovering this incredible country full of amazing sights in every corner. While the first time was a quick and short trip just to Cairo and Alexandria, the second time was the most complete covering all the way from Cairo down to Abu Simbel, merely 3 kilometres from the border with Sudan, including a Nile river cruise and visiting plenty of cities such as Luxor, Esna, Kom Ombo and Aswan, temples and sites from what once was the most advanced and longest ancient civilization ever. Today I can only write a minor update after the third time which was once more pretty much reduced to Cairo and Alexandria.

This is the largest city in the Arab world, and one of the largest in the planet. A massive melting pot of ancient civilizations and cross-roads of cultures, ever growing as far your eyes can reach. Once the epi-centre of the world’s second oldest civilization known to man. It is amazing to think about the fact that we are closer to Cleopatra in time than the original Egyptians! It’s fascinating to think about it, and of course the invaluable legacy left and the few we still know about them with only around 15% of the entire civilization uncovered from the sand, and that is already vast. Just image what further surprises we will eventually get to see from the archaeologists.

In Cairo, no matter what you might hear in the news, sometimes sad, other horrific when there is a terrorist attack, what is certain is the great and fascinating people; truly nice and helpful, very hospitable and kind, making you feel very secure and protected; and there are hordes of people. Way too many inhabitants everywhere, packing the streets and the roads everywhere. It is a very safe city and a tourist should not fear nor be scared. Egypt is a very strong tourist destination, ever growing and developing, and in the last years the safety has improved at giant steps especially for tourists, no matter the city.

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Tarangire and Ngorongoro - Tanzania

Tarangire and Ngorongoro – Tanzania

Post published:23 July 2017
Post category:Africa Tanzania

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The Garden of Eden

If coming from incredible Zanzibar was already a top experience in life, coming for the first time to a safari this completes a fascinating trip to Tanzania. Not only a safari, but two. Two of the most spectacular safaris you can do in the world. However with great disappointment, we had to let it go the top safari in the plane, the Serengeti. This was unfortunately requiring for a longer stay and at least a 3 day safari. We did only count with 2 full days therefore that we had to make a decision. While Ngorongoro was out of question the MUST-DO, the second was more an option in what we wanted to see most. Tarangire would be our best bet. Why? Well, with Ngorongoro we knew we will see most of the animals and landscapes of truly Africa, but not so much elephant-wise, while for Tarangire, it is the park with the most elephants and the incredible huge baobab trees so, so characteristic of “real Africa”. Making this decision was quick. After all, the other option would have been Lake Manyara, also an spectacular national park by the huge lake. Costs were the same, including one or the other, that was not a problem not constrain.

For you to know, we are talking about an expensive business here. The entire trip to Tanzania is splashing money by the hundreds of $. You are squeezed from every side. Lucky for us, we found one of these flight error fare all the way to Zanzibar, so what we saved in the flights used it for getting the internal flights, the safaris and part of the hotels, otherwise this could have turned into a very expensive holiday considering we were not that many days altogether.

So switching our base in Zanzibar for that in Arusha was easy. It’s just an hour’s flight. To this point it all sounds easy, but it was not. We had to play with the flight times in order to maximise the time in Arusha for being able to arrive, spending the first night there and then have the following 2 full days free for both safari, returning to Arusha in the evening so having to stay overnight as the last flights leave for Zanzibar quite early in the afternoon, and then finally making the way back into Zanzibar the following morning. In our case, we needed the earlier flight possible to then enjoy Stone Town which we left for this very last day, before the early morning following day’s flight returning to Muscat and into London. (more…)

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Zanzibar - Tanzania

Zanzibar – Tanzania

Post published:20 July 2017
Post category:Africa Tanzania

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The Pearl of Africa

Reaching our final destination (for now) after a flight tour through Europe and Oman, we finally touch down in Zanzibar. Our very first time in Tanzania, and actually, the first time in the “real Africa” as we’ve only been to Morocco, Tunis and Egypt. That has been a long way and too many hours to reach, however, it was actually in a very convenient and relaxed way first in Luxembourg City, then to Nancy for a day, continuing to Muscat via Munich where we had plenty of time to enjoy such a beautiful city, and now a very well deserved rest by some of the most paradisaical beaches in the world in a sumptuous resort. This would be, nevertheless, a grand arrival to such an impressive country where we will also explore some of the best safaris in the world: Tarangire and Ngorongoro; the city of Arusha, and although from the distance, the mighty Kilimanjaro.

Zanzibar is way more than an island, a small continent! You have everything in here, from the mountains to the sea, and the incredible forests and pure white sand beaches. And all within easy reach and short distances, with an impressive collection of architecture blending the colonial and traditional styles in its small and vibrant capital city, Stone Town.

We spent 3 days upon arrival in the island, where we were towards the north along the main beaches on the west, resting and enjoying the weather, the beaches and pools in the resort, and sightseeing in the afternoons around the surrounding nearby area and villages; and then a last day before our return flight for fully exploring Stone Town. Time-wise, it was perfect for us, although of course I would have welcomed to stay longer in such an impressive resort doing nothing else than chilling out; but our plans were for also experience for the first time in our lives a safari and getting closer to the “real Africa”. (more…)

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Tangier - Morocco

Tangier – Morocco

Post published:22 May 2016
Post category:Africa Morocco

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The door of Africa

The second part of this weekend trip to northern Morocco and after visiting the UNESCO city of Tetouan, we returned to the base where we landed (and from where we would depart the following day back to London), Tangier. Although one of the most modern cities we’ve been in Morocco, nothing to compare with the beautiful historical 4 Imperial Cities of Marrakesh, Rabat, Meknes and Fez, it is still an incredible nice city to visit, especially if this is your base for exploring the nearby famous tourist magnets of Tetouan, Chefchaouen, the beach resorts or one of two of the small Spanish posts in Moroccan’s soil, Ceuta.

While the city heavily relies on tourism in search of beach and sun which is one of the most important figures of its economy, it is way more than just sandy beaches. It does have a rich history through the millennia due to its very desired key location at the tip between the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea, and its colonial history goes back to just some dozen of years when both the Spanish and French occupation ended in 1956. While Arabic is the main language, Spanish and French are widely spoken and understood. Signs can still be seen in dual language, mostly for its proximity and relation with Spain.

The old Medina is one of the smallest in Morocco and it is still on the process of restoration and modernisation after many decaying years. It is also pretty much everything the city has to offer in the sense of sights hence why you do not need much time in this city. The beaches, however, if that is what you are looking for, are quite deserted and recently revamped. The Sables D’or Beach is beside the harbour and just few minute’s walk from the southern edge of the Medina. (more…)

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