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Aswan - Temple of Philae
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Ancient Swenett

Arriving at the last port of call you can reach on a Nile river cruise coming from Luxor, it is now the time to visit the large city of Aswan, ancient Swenett which was the southernmost city during the Egyptian civilization. Located just by the First Cataract of the Nile River, and north of the Aswan Dam, it is another of such places where you will find spectacular places and constructions within the city itself and the areas around it, with countless temples some of which in islands between the two dams and the greater dam itself in Lake Nasser beyond south towards Sudan. Remember the fact when speaking this is Lower Egypt and in the opposite direction, north towards Alexandria, is Upper Egypt, as it might contradict your though when considering the river flows from the south (Lower Egypt) to the north (Upper Egypt). This is the gateway to Nubia, the once major rival civilization to the Egyptians with whom they fought for thousands of years until they were absorbed into one.

Aside from the historical sites and monuments, Aswan is, as opposed to Luxor, a rather pleasant and beautiful city, and very vibrant! The river traffic is constant with plenty of cruise ships, fishing boats, cargo ships and hundreds of feluccas navigating from dusk till dawn. You can also experience was was back during the British colonial times a very posh and upscale destination with glorious buildings and elegant river front, noteworthy to mention the top historic, world famous and amazing Old Cataract Hotel with a countless list of guests including presidents, kings and queens, singers, writers and legends, but largely known for being  one of the main setup places where Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile.

Visiting the city itself is easy and straightforward, however bear in mind you will need plenty of time if you are coming here o your own and not part of an organised trip, and why is that? Because you will constantly need negotiate either a driver, a felucca and depend on taxis, not to mention the dependency of some boats to reach the temples in several islands. Nevertheless “almost” every tourist coming here is on a tour, hence no need to worry about anything. In any case and like everywhere else when on a river cruise, while it is very probably you sleep in the boat during your stay in the city, and after doing the programmed tours during the day, coming the afternoon you are free to roam at your own pace and do as you please, and here comes the best you can do: negotiate the cost and time for a tour on a felucca up and down the river and around the islands within the city. This is without hesitation, one of the best activities we could do. It was one of the most pleasant and relaxed moments in the entire trip and one to always remember. The landscapes, the views, quietness and such a beautiful sunset, all during at least 3 hours and for so little money per person (we were more people from our group hiring it together thus sharing the costs).

Now, if one unique monument from the Egyptians is to standout here, that would be the Unfinished Obelisk. The heaviest, tallest and greatest of any they did ever crave from the quarries. However, what happened for this to remain in the very same place it was quarried and never moved into its final position? A crack in the stone. The Egyptians were so professional and mindful when creating their constructions that could not afford to continue with this piece. Nowadays you can wander and walk around and on top of it, as this quarry is pretty much within the actual city centre. Else for every other monument complexes and tombs, you depend on a tour or figuring out the transport as explained earlier.

Please be careful and well prepared during the summer months, as this region gets extremely hot. Afterall, you are a doorstep from the Aswan Desert. As well to note, sandstorm occur quite often, and cold ruin your day if being too strong. Otherwise you might not see blue skies but brownish and darker days.

For information about the city’s rich history check Wikipedia and Wikitravel sites. Egypt’s currency is the Egyptian Pound (EGP). Please note that any price reference is true as from when this guide was created, therefore check prices in advance as with the time they change especially in a country with such hyper inflation and.

What to see and do in Aswan

  • Unfinished Obelisk One of the main highlights in the city itself. Quick to visit where 30 minutes is well enough. Admire what was meant to be the largest, grandest and heaviest of the obelisks the Egyptians ever created. This monument in one of dozens listed by the UNESCO as World Heritage Site as part of the Nubian Monuments from Abu Simbel to Philae. EGP 80.
  • Nubian Village Although nowadays this place is more just and solely a place created for tourists, it is nevertheless a nice area where to see the Nubian architecture and its people, and a nice beach you can have a bath in the Nile. And yes, against what you might think, the river is clean enough for doing so.
  • Elephantine Island Just opposite the Nubian Village and in the middle of the Nile River, includes several UNESCO listed monuments such as the Temple of Khnum, the Small Kalabsha temple and one of the oldest nilometers in Egypt.
  • Tombs of the Nobles Along the West Bank of the Nile River. You can actually see these hills and plenty of its constructions all over from within the East Bank in the city centre. It is the resting place of princes, nobles and priests from the Old Kingdom to the Roman period, and while this place is never included in any organised trip, you are welcome to get there and wander around. There’s the apparently official fee of EGP 50 to gain access, but be aware of some people apparently guarding the tombs and holding the key to access them, telling you this and that and that are closed, but for a little tip they can open you the doors. This is a widely known behaviour even in Saqqara when you go more off the usual tourist route. In any case, it is actually worth it to give them a tip and see some of these wonderful tombs.
  • Monasteries of Saint Simeon and Saint Hedra Both located in the same hill near the Tombs of the Nobles. Rarely visited by any tourists.
  • Aga Khan Mausoleum At the top of the hill near the tombs and monasteries listed above, it is widely visible from the river.
  • Temple of Philae Dating from 690 BC, it was one of the largest standalone temple complex to be entirely moved into a new island location due to the flooding that created Lake Nasser after the construction of the new High Aswan Dam. Although since the construction of the first Low Dam in 1902 by the British, it remained semi-submerged for most part of the year until its move in 1980. You can reach it only by boat, and if you are in any organised trip, this will certainly be included, otherwise EGP 200. It is one of the most complete and beautifully preserved from the era.
  • Temple of Kalabsha Located in Lake Nasser in an artificial island created for its move and preservation from the raising waters of the dam, it is the largest of all the Lower Nubia temples. Yet again the only way to reach it is by boat, and yet again will certainly be included as part of an organised trip. The island includes some smaller and minor temples and constructions saved from the water. EGP 60

Transports

Coming to Aswan is generally easy and fast by airplane via Cairo and some other but minor Egyptian and international destinations. The airport is some 25 kilometres from the city centre, and it is merely an hour flight from Cairo. In the other hand, yet still being easy but way more, more time consuming, is by train or by bus, being the train the most pleasant way to travel as it goes almost entirely parallel along the river offering great views at every turn. With an ever improving railway network and with the new Talgo train sets between Alexandria at the northernmost terminus and Aswan the southernmost terminal, the combination is perfect especially that one can travel all the way from one end to the other stopping anywhere in between as desired if travelling on their own and not part of an organised tour. Therefore all the main and important cities and sights are exactly on the route.

In the other hand, the most widely common way to reach Aswan is on a Nile river cruise as it is either the starting point of a tour or the end. Should you wish to find out more information about the river cruises then check this page where you have everything detailed and explained.

Within the city, the transports can be quite chaotic, or non existent. Basically you will end up depending on taxis, or Uber and other similar apps. However if walking is in your mind, you can cover several sites easily such as the unfinished obelisk and of course everything around the city center, yet will need to negotiate the price if you wish to have a trip on a felucca, or when going to visit some temples in the islands. All of this is not applicable if you are in an organised tour.

Accommodation

Being one of the largest and important cities in Egypt, it is expected to find that great choice of hotels of any kind, but please bear in mind the large 4 and 5 stars properties tend to be quite pricy if not booked well ahead of time. Another good point to consider here is that any organised trip you might book in your home country, usually gets better deals on these properties. Nevertheless since our Nile river cruise was terminating at Aswan, the night was still onboard for us. But I have to say there are plenty of world renown resort names and grand hotels everywhere.

If I would have to select one, then I would not hesitate in having the chance to stay in one of the most historic properties not just in the city and Egypt, but in the world, the famous Old Cataract Hotel right in the heart of the city overlooking the Nile. However this comes at a price, and that’s high. In the other hand, the best starting point would be having a look at some of our preferred affiliate hotel search engine such as Hotels.comBooking.comExpediaOtel.comAgodaOpodoLateRooms or Ebookers.

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Aswan, Egypt, October 2022

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